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3X and 6X Short (All Black)

Both the 3X and 6X Short Malcolm scopes are quite similar in appearance. With impressively strong drawn-steel tubes, these short Malcolms hearken back to an era of optics epitomized by the Winchester A5. Scopes of this style have been out in the world since the days of the Chapman-James scopes, at home on rifles such as the Winchester 94 and the Whitworth.

In the kit, the scope comes with the front and rear rings, the appropriate Posa-cut blocks, and hefty thread-in lens covers. The arrangement is built to hold the scope steady, without the recoil sliding found in some of our other models. 

To mount the scope, the rings are slid onto the blocks and the crossbolts are tightened in place. Commonly, the blocks are screwed onto the barrel - the barrel may need to be drilled and tapped. Sometimes, though, one of the blocks may go on the receiver. Depending on the model of rifle, we may have kits to utilize existing holes and clamping surfaces to mount the scope without drilling and tapping for the blocks. 

Optional Accessories

Sliding Ring Replacement: Out of the box, this scope is built to stay still. When the rifle fires, the scope should not slide. However, there are some situations and historical setups where you may want your scope to slide. In that case, the front locking ring can be swapped out for a sliding lock ring, which enables the scope to slide. To fit the standard front ring, use the 17SLR.

6X Short ‘Two Tone’

Though similar in shape to the 3X and 6X all-black scopes, this particular variation makes a nod to even older scope designs. Once upon a time, brass dominated the field for scope tubes. Brass tubes had problems with internal reflections and flaky coatings. The Two Tone scope keeps the brass to the objective housing and the eyepiece, with a non-reflective steel tube for the main body. If your rifle has a brass receiver and a steel barrel, this particular scope should look right at home. 

In the kit, the scope comes with the front and rear rings, two-sided Posa and Crescent cut blocks, and hefty thread-in brass lens covers. The scope is built to slide, handling recoil with ease - just remember to pull it back after each shot! 

To mount the scope, the rings are slid onto the blocks and the crossbolts are tightened in place. Commonly, the blocks are screwed onto the barrel - the barrel may need to be drilled and tapped. Sometimes, though, one of the blocks may go on the receiver. Depending on the model of rifle, there may be kits to utilize existing holes and clamping surfaces to mount the scope without drilling and tapping for the blocks.

8X Lyman (Gen i) & Unertl (Gen ii)

A studied redesign of the classic Unertl 8X scope found on the Marines’ 1903A1 and Model 1941 rifles. If you’ve ever seen a shot of Carlos Hathcock, you’ve probably seen this scope. We currently have two versions of the classic 8X, with the differences existing largely in the rear ring (where the turrets are found). Both versions of the scope have adjustable parallax, changed by removing the sun shade and then rotating the parallax adjustment ring. The Gen ii version of the scope utilizes Unertl style turret adjustments, while the Gen i has Lyman adjustments.

In the kit, the scope comes with the front and rear rings, the Crescent-cut blocks meant to fit on a Springfield 1903, and thread-in lens covers. The scope is built to slide, handling recoil with ease - just remember to pull it back after each shot! The Gen i comes with a spring in the kit, while the Gen ii (built for CMP competitions) does not have a spring. A spring can be acquired separately if you’re interested.

To mount the scope, the rings are slid onto the blocks and the crossbolts are tightened in place. Commonly, one block is installed on the receiver and one is installed on the barrel. Depending on the version of 1903 that you’re installing this on, it may need to be drilled and tapped. Additionally, a portion of the wood guard may need to be cut away for the front block and ring to fit.

20X Unertl

Reviving the classic Unertl ‘Target Spot’ design with modern hardware, our 20X Malcolm is the perfect pairing for classic precision rifles. Commonly found atop a Model 70 or a well-machined .22 cal. The parallax in the 20X is quite easily set by twisting two rings on the objective bell - one to drive the lens housing forward, the other to move backward. 

In the kit, the scope comes with the front and (Unertl-style) rear rings, Crescent-cut blocks tall enough to clear the objective bell, and thread-in lens covers. The scope is built to slide, handling recoil with ease - just remember to pull it back after each shot!

To mount the scope, the rings are slid onto the blocks and the crossbolts are tightened in place. The rifle will have to be drilled and tapped to install the blocks.

6X Long Malcolm (Drill and Tap)

Once upon a time, William Malcolm made scopes as long as the barrel of the rifle - and sometimes even a little longer, for proper eye relief. If you’ve ever seen “3:10 to Yuma”, you’ve seen one of these being used on a rare revolving rifle. Though these scopes began cropping up toward the end of the Civil War, they became more common afterwards in hunting applications. Malcolm originally made these scopes in magnifications up to 20X, though the 6X was the most popular. 

In the kit,  the scope comes with the front ring, bunny ears setup, ⅜” dovetail, heavy duty base plate, and thread-in brass lens caps. The arrangement is built to hold the scope steady, without the recoil sliding found in some of our other models. 

Mounting this scope can, at times, be a little tricky. Generally speaking, the rifle needs two dovetail cuts along the barrel - one near the muzzle (typically used by the front sight), and one back near the receiver (used by the rear iron sight). Depending on the cartridge and rifle weight, you’ll then also have to drill and tap 1 to 2 more holes near the rear dovetail in order to fasten down the heavy duty base. 

Optional Accessories / Modifications

• Higher Front Ring: Depending on the trajectory of the bullet, the taper of the barrel, and a number of other factors, the 6X Long Malcolm may not zero at a close distance. To enable the scope to zero closer, the normal front ring can be replaced with a higher front ring. 

• Different Dovetail Sizes: Your rifle may have dovetail cuts outside of the standard ⅜”. The dovetail block is replaceable, and we have multiple sizes available. Please measure your rifle’s dovetails, and give us a call if you’d like to confirm. 

• Different Sunshade Lengths: The scope is meant to reach to the end of the muzzle, to make sure of the dovetail found there. Depending on the length of your barrel, you may need a sunshade other than the 5” shade in the kit. The sunshade threads into the objective housing, and takes only a few moments to replace. As a general rule of thumb, 

• 28” barrel = 3” sunshade

• 30” barrel = 5” sunshade

• 32” barrel = 7” sunshade

• 34” barrel = 9” sunshade

• Fine Elevation Adjustment Kit: This set of parts attaches to the bunny ears, providing a vertical screw adjustment for making fine corrections on the fly.  

• Offset Mounting Kit: For round-barrel rifles that might have difficulty mounting the long in-line, this set of parts includes an offset plate and offset front dovetail clamp. The offset plate replaces the normal heavy duty base, giving the scope a mounting point to the left of the barrel. Meanwhile, the front dovetail ring clamps around the barrel and provides an extended dovetail cut so that the front of the scope can be positioned properly side-to-side. Please measure the diameter of your barrel to ensure you select the proper clamping ring size. 

6X Long Malcolm (Direct Dovetail)

Towards the end of the 1800s, William Malcolm designed a change to the mounts on his long ‘Rifle Telescope’. This change, known as the “C Type Mountings,” was a sturdier alternative to the earlier “A” and “B” offset mounts. While Malcolm’s design was ahead of its time, it certainly had a few limitations. It could be damaged by recoil, had limited elevation adjustment, and required a screwdriver to adjust the windage. We’ve maintained his stylistic choices while updating nearly every aspect of his Type C mounts - with stronger alloys and tighter tolerances, increased elevation range, tool-less windage adjustment, and a structure that allows the scope to slide to avoid recoil. In short, we’re certain it’s what Malcolm would have done if he had a CNC machine. 

At the time of my writing this, this particular kit is not yet available. When it is: In the kit, the scope comes with the windage front ring, bunny ears setup, and thread-in brass lens caps. This setup is designed to allow the scope tube to slide - preserving both the scope and the dovetails against the recoil of a strong cartridge. 

Mounting this scope involves assembling a number of small parts. Everything ties down into the dovetail cuts, so the mounts take up relatively little room. Once the dovetails are inserted and the set screws are locked down, all the other parts are installed and the scope tube is finally inserted into the apparatus. 

Optional Modifications

• Different Dovetail Sizes: Your rifle may have dovetail cuts of slightly different sizes. This scope’s mounts need to fit tightly into the dovetails on the barrel. Please measure the size of your dovetail cuts, or let us know the manufacturer of your rifle so that we can ensure the proper size of dovetail block. 
• Different Sunshade Lengths: The scope is meant to reach to the end of the muzzle, to make sure of the dovetail found there. Depending on the length of your barrel, you may need a sunshade other than the 5” shade in the kit. The sunshade threads into the objective housing, and takes only a few moments to replace. As a general rule of thumb, 
• 28” barrel = 3” sunshade
• 30” barrel = 5” sunshade
• 32” barrel = 7” sunshade
• 34” barrel = 9” sunshade

Short Scope No-Machining kits

Long Scope No-Machining Kits

Scopes with turrets

Many of our older scopes have turrets for their adjustments. Adjustments are made at the rear ring by turning the turrets. Some turrets have clicks, others do not. In all cases, turning a turret on an older scope performs a similar function as turning a turret on a modern scope - it will adjust windage or elevation, depending on which turrets are being turned. 

The scope tube sits inside the rings. Any sliding or locking is handled by the front ring. Adjustments are handled by the rear ring.
The rings on our ‘short’ Malcolm scopes clamp onto ‘blocks’. Blocks and mounting rings need the same ‘crossbolt’ to properly lock in place. There are two varieties of crossbolt: Posa and Crescent. 

Block spacing is a concern, due to how it changes index values on the turrets. When the blocks are spaced closer together, adjustments are more coarse. When farther apart, adjustments are more fine. Our scopes have been optimized for easy math at 7.25” spacing between the blocks/rings (center-to-center). If the blocks are spaced a different distance than that, some math may need to be applied. Please see the chart in the next section for values and references. 

The adjustments (turrets, rear ring) normally have a very Shakespearean concern: to click or not to click. The Lyman and Unertl style rings click. The Cage and Precision style rings have no clicks. Depending on your degree of historical accuracy, personal preferences, or competition constraints, there are four adjustment rings to choose from. 

These scopes will typically require some drilling and tapping to mount properly. The blocks will need to attach to your rifle somehow. They will need to be firmly attached, so two screws per block. Most commonly, they will be attached to the barrel. For some rifle models (such as the Springfield 1903), one block may go atop the receiver. 

If you don’t want to drill and tap or you have a scope that requires offset mounting, we may have a kit built specifically for your model of rifle. Not all old rifles have the same specs - from receiver length, height, and thickness to the holes normally provided by the manufacturer. 

Scopes with the bunny ears

Our ‘long’ Malcolm scope uses ‘bunny ears’. We have two versions of the bunny ear mounting system: ‘drill and tap’ or ‘direct dovetail’. They are built to handle recoil differently. The Drill and Tap version holds the scope still, but requires that the rear base is mounted very firmly with extra screws. The Direct Dovetail version allows the scope to slide (and thus does not need so much drilling and tapping), but will require a very tight fit at the dovetails to prevent loosening over time.

For the drill and tap version, windage and elevation are both handled at the rear mount. The scope moves up/down in the bunny ears to adjust elevation. The entire base moves left/right to handle windage. Windage is normally set, then loctite’d down. Elevation is adjusted as needed. 

For the direct dovetail version, elevation is handled at the rear mount and windage is handled at the front. Due to the lower amount of strain placed on the mounting system, this does not require as much loctite-ing. Both windage and elevation are easily changed by the turning of various screws.

If you don’t want to drill and tap or you have a scope that requires offset mounting, we may have a kit built specifically for your model of rifle. Not all old rifles have the same specs - from receiver length, height, and thickness to the holes normally provided by the manufacturer. 

For the short Malcolm scopes (3, 6, 8, 20X), we recommend a spacing of 7.25” between the front and rear mounts, center-to-center [image demarcating measure points]. For the 8X, this keeps the clicks at a ¼ MOA value per click. Looking at this another way - the turrets each have a particular tpi (threads per inch). This thread rate-of-twist doesn’t change. Turning the turret only pushes the (rear of the) scope a particular linear distance per twist of the turret. In the case of the 8X’s normal Lyman or Unertl adjustments, every 4 clicks indicates a move of 0.002”. When the mounts are spaced 7.25” apart, that particular 0.002” move changes the angle that the scope is pointed by 0.016 degrees. That’s 1 MOA. Each individual click is roughly 0.0005” of movement, which comes out to 0.004 degrees; ¼ MOA. Placing the mounts closer together would cause that 0.002” of movement to result in a larger degree of change, >1 MOA. 

Below is a chart of mounting distances and adjustment values. If you’re mounting the rings a different distance apart than what is listed below, give us a call and we can do the math for you. You can also break out your old geometry book if you enjoy the math; everything is based on circles and right triangles. 

On the long scopes, this change in values is no different. The index style is a little different - rather than wrapping around a turret, the index proceeds flatly along a face. We’ll take a look at the elevation adjustment below: 

• Ring offset assumes blocks of equal heights, mounted on a level surface. On the 8X scopes, the included blocks are at the different heights necessary to mount on a Springfield 1903. For other scopes, the blocks are of equal heights.

Setting Parallax

Only our ‘Unertl-style’ scopes allow you to set parallax. The other scopes (3X & 6X) are fixed parallax, set for 100 yards. They’ll work well at other distances, but 100 yards is a good standard for some of those older cartridges. 

We have two parallax mechanisms: 

To set parallax on the 8X scopes: First, remove the sunshade. The sunshade acts as a compression locking ring for the next elements we’ll be dealing with. Once the sunshade is off, you’ll see the parallax adjustment ring and the objective lens housing. When you turn the parallax adjustment ring, it’ll move either farther forward or backward. When it moves forward (for closer distances), you may notice it pushing the objective lens housing forward. When adjusting that same ring rearward (farther distances), something different happens. The adjustment ring backs away from the objective housing, but the housing doesn’t chase after it. You’re going to have to reach forward and push the housing to sit flush with the adjustment ring. It should make a nice, metallic ‘click’ when it hits home. Keep adjusting your parallax until it’s where you need it to be, and push the objective housing in place whenever it’s needed. When the parallax is set, screw the sunshade back on. That’ll keep the objective housing and adjustment rings locked in place.

To set parallax on the 20X scope: You’ll be using two end rings to push around a central ring. The central ring has screws connecting to the objective lens housing inside the bell. As this ring is pushed back and forth, it moves the internal housing. Moving the housing is pretty straightforward - if you want to scoot the housing forward (closer distances), you’ll need to back-off the forward ring. Then, twist the rear ring so that it moves forward, pushing the central ring along with it. When it’s at the right spot, lock the rings in place around the central ring. To move backwards, just do the opposite - back-off the rear ring, chase with the forward ring. 

Lyman click ring

This is the classic rear ring from our 8X Gen i scope. It utilizes small steel plates (known as “F Plates”) to enable the click mechanism. The F Plates also ride against the scope body, providing a replaceable friction surface to handle the wear of the scope’s sliding movement. 

The turrets can be reindexed by loosening the set screws around the turret head’s perimeter, then turning to the appropriate position. 

The ring mounts onto blocks with a Crescent cut crossbolt. 

Will it work?

Unertl click ring

The standard rings on our new 8X Gen ii scope as well as the 20X Target scope. This is a highly precise, CNC-machined piece of historical appreciation. Based on the designs from Unertl scopes of old, it quickly became a frontrunner in the vintage sniper competition field. 

The turrets can be reindexed by loosening the top screw, rotating the turret to the appropriate position, then tightening down the top screw again (finger tight). 

The ring mounts onto blocks with a Crescent cut crossbolt. 

Will it work?

Cage clickless ring

Built primarily around designs from the Chapman-James era, this round-sided adjustment ring features deceptively simple turrets. The turrets do not click, but have locking nuts that ensure no movement of the turrets under recoil. 

The ring mounts onto blocks with a Posa Cut crossbolt. 

Will it work?

Precision clickless ring

A highly precise design originating from the latter half of the 1800s. The turrets are of a tall top-hat design with index markings around the perimeter, allowing easy reading of the position without unmounting from the rifle. The turrets can be locked in place by locking nuts, preventing movement during recoil. 

The ring mounts onto blocks with a Crescent Cut crossbolt. 

Will it work?

Bunny ears (D&T)

This rear adjustment setup for the 6X long scope is made of a handful of important parts, which combine to hold a scope firmly in place. The foundation start with a dovetail block. The block is replaceable and can be swapped for blocks of sizes other than the standard ⅜”. Attached to this piece is a ‘heavy duty base,’ which is also drilled and tapped onto the barrel. Atop all this sits the bunny ears, sandwiching down onto a flatspring sitting on the heavy duty base. The bunny ears are fastened down by screws going through a windage plate. By loosening these two screws, the bunny ears can be pushed side to side through turning of the windage screws. The scope sits firmly in between the bunny ears, held in place by a collar. The collar’s crossbolt can be loosened to allow the scope to move up and down, changing elevation. An index sits on both the collar’s face and the left bunny ear. 

This rear adjustment is built to hold a scope in place. It cannot be set up to allow the scope to slide. 

Will it work?

Sliding bunny ears

Toward the waning years of the 1800s, Malcolm designed a rather robust and mechanically marvelous in-line mounting kit. Based on his old designs, we’ve taken things a step farther with improved materials, greater vertical travel, and adjustments crafted for repeatable precision. 

This component sits at the rear of the scope and provides only elevation adjustment. Normally, windage adjustment would be handled by the front ring that accompanies this rear ring in the kit. 

The mount begins with a dovetail block, inserted into a dovetail cut at the rear of the barrel. This dovetail block needs to fit tightly (gentle hammer kind of tight) into the dovetail to ensure no movement. Blocks will typically start on the upper side of sizing tolerances, so that they can be filed down to fit your individual rifle. There is also a set screw in the dovetail block to ensure it remains locked in place - especially if loctite is involved!

The bunny ears are screwed down onto the dovetail block. The scope is positioned in between the ears via a collar. The collar’s crossbolt connects to a vertical screw. By loosening the crossbolt and rotating the turret at the top of the bunny ear, the scope’s elevation can be changed. 

This mount is designed to allow the scope to slide. 

Will it work?

Rear Ring Accessories

Fine elevation adjustment kit

This part set allows the traditional Drill and Tap Bunny Ears to have a vertical adjustment screw, making precision elevation adjustments easier overall. It cannot be adapted for use with any other mount or ring. 

Will it work? 

• Only on the D&T Bunny Ears

Tube locking collar

This collar wraps around the main scope tube. It is a sturdy, tightly-fit steel stopping point that prevents a scope from moving. To fasten in place, tighten the two screws at the top of the locking collar. 

This piece is generally used to prevent the 6X long scope from sliding. 

Will it work?

Sliding front ring

This design features a tall top cap. Inside of the top cap sits a spring and plunger. The plunger is shaped to create a channel for a rail to slide down. The plunger is what allows the scope to slide without rotating (and thus skewing the reticle). There will be a small amount of play - a few thousandths - to allow the rail to fit without sticking. 

This ring fastens onto a normal block with a Crescent Cut crossbolt. 

Will it work?

Non-sliding front ring

This ring comes standard with the 3X and 6X ‘all black’ scopes. It has a relatively low-profile design, with a spring and plunger hidden under the scope to ensure a constant contact between the scope tube and the ring. In its normal configuration, it is built to prevent the scope from sliding under recoil. However, swapping out the lock ring for one that slides (specifically the 17SLR) will allow a scope to slide. 

The ring uses standard blocks with a Posa Cut crossbolt. 

Will it work?

Long scope front ring

The standard front ring for the 6X Long Malcolm Scope (D&T Mounting). This ring holds the scope aloft with an underside spring. The standard ring fits into a ⅜” dovetail cut, standard on most rifle models. 

With the standard ring, the scope is able to zero at roughly 200 yards (depending on cartridge and load). It maximizes the potential long-range distance of the scope. 

Will it work?

Long scope higher front ring

A replacement front ring for the 6X Long Scope (D&T Mounting). This ring is built for a setup that does not slide, and fits into a standard ⅜” dovetail. 

This front ring is significantly taller than the standard front ring, allowing for much closer zeroing distances. This ring can also be used to compensate for a heavy taper in the barrel. Ultimately, this will lead to a reduced maximum range. 

Will it work?

Windage-adjusting front ring

Introduced as the front half of the 6X Long Malcolm Direct Dovetail mounts, this particular ring can adjust the windage of the scope. This front ring slides into a dovetail cut at the muzzle-end of the barrel. Different dovetail sizes exist, and we have different dovetail block sizes to accommodate this. 

The dovetail block is different from our normal dovetail block design. It is a little taller, has half of an index on one side, another dovetail-like trapezoidal shape on top, and threaded holes on the left and right. The index matches up with the index found on the attached ring piece. The actual ring portion of this set slides onto the upper dovetail-like portion of the dovetail block. It is pushed left and right by screws that thread into the holes mentioned earlier. 

In sum total, the windage-adjusting front ring contains the following pieces:

• Dovetail Block / Front Support Base (with two set screws)
• Windage adjustment screws (2)
• Front Support Ring
• Flat Spring (attached to ring, meant to support scope)

Will it work?

Slide Stop Ring

This ring sits at the very front end of the 6X Long Malcolm scope. It’s a rather straightforward ring design, with three set screws around the perimeter. The set screws hold the ring firmly in place on the scope itself. The ring has an indexing tab, meant to fit into a divot at the front of the ‘windage adjusting front ring’. 

Due to the design of this ring and how it’s purpose-built to function with the windage adjusting front ring, it will only work in conjunction with the 6X Long Scope Direct Dovetail mounts. Though it may fit on other ¾” tubes, it is not designed as either a recoil-stopping device or a locking device.

Locking ring

This ring is meant to fit into the standard front ring that comes with the 3X and 6X Short Malcolm (all black) scopes. It will not fit any of the other front rings, and would interfere with the use of any rear rings. 

Sliding locking ring

This ring comes standard with the 6X ‘Two Tone’ Short Malcolm scope. It is meant to fit into the ring that comes with this scope and the 8X Malcolm scopes (the ring with a top-cap and rail-follower). This ring allows a scope to slide, granting a stopping point (for resetting to battery) and a rail (to maintain scope alignment). 

If combined with the sliding front ring found on either 8X scope or the 6X ‘Two Tone’, the sliding locking ring can allow a short scope to slide under recoil. This ring is a substitute for the rail commonly found on the 8X scopes, and so it is only necessary for the 3X or 6X Short Malcolm scopes that do not have a rail. Meanwhile, the 6X Long Malcolm scopes utilize an entirely different mounting system. 

Return spring

The ‘return spring’ works in conjunction with the standard ‘pope rib’ or the ‘sliding locking ring’ to return a sliding scope to battery position after recoil. This spring will only work when used with either an 8X scope (Gen i & Gen ii) or a Short Malcolm scope featuring the ‘sliding locking ring.’ 

The 6X Long Malcolm scope does not provide adequate mounting space for the spring to serve a purpose. 

Heavy duty base

The ‘heavy duty base’ provides a stronger, recoil-resistant mounting solution to the 6X Long Malcolm Drill & Tap rear mount. It fastens to the top of the dovetail block with 2 screws. 3 more potential fastening spots are provided forward of the dovetail block. Some drilling and tapping of the barrel may be required, at which point the heavy duty base can be fastened onto the barrel with loctite’d screws. It is recommended that at least 2 screws are used for cartridges of .45-70 or stronger. 

The ‘heavy duty base’ will only work with the 6X Long Malcolm D&T rear mount. 

Sunshade

The sunshade is an extension added to the 6X Long Malcolm scope. By adding a sunshade of the appropriate length, the scope can be installed with proper eye relief and can extend to meet the front dovetail, where the front ring is installed.
The sunshade can conveniently fit into the objective end of the 6X ‘Two Tone’ Short Malcolm scope if you need it, though it lacks the proper support to serve as a location for the front ring. 

For the Long Malcolm scope, the recommended sunshade lengths / barrel lengths are listed below:

• 28” Barrel : 3” Sunshade
• 30” Barrel : 5” Sunshade
• 32” Barrel : 7” Sunshade
• 34” Barrel : 9” Sunshade