When you’re using a scope, let’s be honest - you’re going to be outside… and the outside world is full of grit, grime, dust, mud, strange little fibers. There’s stuff out there, and it’s going to get on your scope. Today, we’re going to be looking at how to get your scope to look as pretty as when you first laid eyes on it.
Once again we’re in the shop, and today we’re talking about optics. You probably wonder why I’ve got a couple rifles set up here. Well, they’re very similar: both are M98 Mauser actions, both are chambered off the Winchester 284 cartridge, custom barreling… The difference is we have a second focal plane and we have a first focal plane.
Today I want to talk about mounting an optic you finally purchased. I’m sure you shopped around, got the style you like. There’s a lot of options you had to decide before you bought that piece of glass. Now let’s talk about how you’re going to mount it to the rifle, the proper way - to keep it from losing zero and from scratching the tube up when you’re adjusting it, trying to get it just how you want it.
Let’s walk through the three easy steps it takes to get your M1000 zeroed and calibrated to your caliber and load. The patented technology of the M1000 PRO raises and lowers the rear of the scope, allowing you to get first-round hits of up to 1000 yards without dialing for elevation or complex distance estimation.
In this lesson we’re going to take a look at how to use our ballistic calculator or dope data from our rifle log to zero our ART scope at a closer distance. In order to obtain an equivalent 200 yard zero for the M1000 at 25 yards, we’ll first need to understand the relationship between the optic’s line of sight, the rifle’s line of bore, and the bullet’s path.
Today we’re going to take a look at how to use a ballistics calculator to determine your initial cam setting for the M1000 PRO and the M1200 XLR ART scopes. We’re using JBM ballistics - a free ballistic calculator online.